Tomato Troubleshooting

A Little Extra Work Goes a Long Way

Mulching around tomatoes is perhaps the most overlooked (and important) part of growing quality tomato plants. Mulching with (herbicide-free) grass clippings, straw, or fabric will not only keep the weeds out, but also prevent blight. Tomato Blights live in the soil and hurt the plants when that soil bounces up and hits the bottom leaves. Mulching around the stalk and out a few feet will help to prevent blight from ruining your crop.

What's wrong with my tomatoes?

By no means is this a complete list of tomato problems, but knowing a little information about tomatoes now can prevent a lot of google searches for "black spots on tomatoes" later.

Blight

If you notice your bottom leaves turning yellow and brown with spots of black there's a good chance you've already been infected with a blight. To be sure, bring a sample to our Lawn and Garden employees for an identification. Pick infected leaves off and spray the rest of the plant with a copper fungicide to prevent the blight from spreading (wash hands and tools before touching another plant). Always water at the base of the plant and never from above. Proper watering will ensure happy, blight-free tomatoes.

Blossom End Rot

You've spent your summer mulching, watering, and fertilizing, the time is finally
You've worked hard for this moment. Cherish it. You pick your perfect tomatoes and that's the moment the anger sets in. The bottom of your tomatoes are black... You gave them enough sun. You mulched. You watered from the bottom. You did everything right. Well, sort of. Fertilizing tomatoes correctly is another important step. Blossom End Rot is caused by a calcium deficiency. To prevent Blossom End Rot, use a fertilizer with a good amount of calcium. We recommend Tomato Maker.

Insects

Well, it looks like you're not the only one who thinks tomatoes are delicious. Bugs like tomatoes too. There are some easy and safe fixes. For spraying the insects we like a product called Captain Jack's Deadbug by Bonide.  It's natural, and best of all, it works. They eat the aphids and not the plants.

Strawberry Care

SITE AND SOIL

Any soil that grows good garden crops will also grow an abundance of strawberries.  It may be sandy or even a heavy clay.  Sandy loam is ideal.  Good moisture and drainage is important.  Plenty of organic matter in the soil is good for holding moisture. The best berry production requires full sunlight for at least 8 hours a day.

FERTILIZE

Before planting work cow manure into the soil.  It is the best material for good berry growth.  Approximately 4 weeks after planting apply a balanced  fertilizer of (10-10-10) .  It should be sprinkled around the base of the plant without getting on leaves.  Do not apply fertilizer when the leaves are wet. Do not apply fertilizer during the Spring on fruiting beds.  Fertilize in the late summer (August or September) prior to next years harvest as fruit beds for spring develop in the fall.

WHEN TO PLANT

Early Spring is the best time to plant strawberries.  The suggested planting dates for Northern Minnesota is April 15 - July 15.  Fall planting is not recommended. Expect 2 or 3 years of good berry production with a well-planted and tended strawberry patch.  After that, if yields become smaller, then your patch should be replaced with new plants.   Also, the location should be changed.  The dangers of building up disease and insect populations will be reduced by changing the site.

HOW TO PLANT

Plant strawberry plants 18 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart.

Much of your success in growing berries depends on how you handle your plants. They should be planted promptly.  DO NOT LET THEM DRY OUT. Any method of planting that lets the roots go reasonably straight down, spreading wide for increased feeding area is good.  Soil should be pressed firmly against the roots with the crown of the plant just at the surface with no roots showing.   If the crown of the plant is covered with soil, the plant will eventually die.  "Ask for our pictured hand out that shows proper planting".   Be sure the root ball is very moist before planting.  Always water plants well prior to planting and again after transplanting.  The initial watering should be clear water. Do not use fertilizer at this time.

Shortly after the strawberry plants are planted they will produce blossoms, which should be removed.  This will improve plant growth.  Some cultivation and light hoeing may be necessary to control weeds.

Remember to keep strawberry beds moist.

RENEWING BEDS AT THE END OF THE SEASON

After harvest it is beneficial to thin your beds.  Mow off the leaves by raising your mower so as not to damage the plant crowns.  Thin the bed with a rake or hoe, leaving 4 to 6 inches between plants.  If it is dry, water your plants after bed renewal.  At this time you can do a light application of fertilizer.

MULCHING

Mulching is necessary for winter protection. In case of sudden very cold temperatures, the crowns and roots may be damaged.  Apply 3 to 4 inches of straw.  The mulch will keep the temperature at ground level from dropping suddenly.  Mulch, also, converses moisture in the spring, delays flowering, makes better picking conditions and reduces rot on the berries.  Prepare for rodent inhabitation, use bait protection.

CONTROL OF DISEASE AND INSECTS

Transplanting from an old bed will often cause problems in your new patch.  Keep patch clean and weed free.  Remove over ripe fruit that attracts insects.  Overcrowded beds tend to have more fruit rot.  Thus bed renewal wil prevent this problem.

RED SPIDER AND MITE CONTROL:   Mites attack strawberry plants.  Spraying with KELTHANE will help control this problem.  Begin spraying as soon as growth starts.  Repeat 2 or 3 times.

STRAWBERRY FRUIT ROTS:  Many gardeners grow a beautiful crop of berries only to lose the crop to fruit rots.  Make timely sprays of Benlate & Captan to control these fungi.  There are several fruit rots caused by fungi, but they all have one trait in common - they can infect a berry in any stage of its development.

Ten Points to Consider When Designing Your Landscape

With a great big 'Thank you!" to our friends at Gerten's Landscape design in Inver Grove Heights (www.gertens.com), we reprint these 10 general tips to help you make the most of the landscape you have available.

Light

Track patterns of sun and shade in your garden and choose plant materials that are appropriate for your light conditions. Add golds & white to brighten dark areas and use strong colors for "pop" in sun areas. Don't forget to develop shady areas for gathering on hot and sunny days. 

Soil

Sandy to clay. Dry to moist. let your garden's soil guide your plant selection. Do you need a clay busting cone flower or a drought tolerant barberry? Consider amending your soil to give your plants the best changes of survival. 

Zone and Microclimate

Northern Minnesota is on the edge of being Zone 4, and many plants succeed very well. (All plants sold at Beier's Greenhouse will grow here; some are grown as annuals because of the weather.) In some yards with protection, a micro climate is created that lets you get away with some zone 5 plantings. Questions you should ask yourself before thinking about going out of zone 4 plants: Which plants thrive in your zone? Which plants require winter protection? How exposed is your garden to the elements?

Function

How will your space be used? For outdoor entertaining or a child's play area? Do you need to improve drainage, retain a slope, or create some screening? identify your needs for the garden and create spaces that have purpose. 

Color and Texture

Think bold and subdued, like Purple Smokebush and Russian Sage, or smoothing and rough, like Cut Leaf Sumac and Pine. Flowers, foliage, bark and hardscape materials will have color and texture. Think about what materials will compliment, create contrasts, and provide seasonal interest. 

Scent & Sound

Place fragrant plants near outdoor gathering spaces and near windows to take advantage of the scents. Incorporate the sounds of water, birds, the rustling of leaves or wind chimes to enhance the garden experience and to mask distractions. 

Scale

Is your garden in a small urban backyard or in a rural field? Can your site accommodate a six foot Hydrangea tree or a sixty foot Catalpa tree?Be sure to use appropriate sized plants and hardscape materials to best enhance the scale of your site. 

Personal Style

What has special meaning to you? Cottage flowers, formal hedges, prairie grasses, garden sculptures? Do you require low maintenance natives or formal, sculpted ornamentals? Incorporate your personal style and let others see that this is your garden. 

Architecture

Compliment the style of your home in the garden. Formal architecture fits best with formal landscape, as prairie style fits best with a more informal landscape. try to bring smaller architectural pieces into the garden through arbors, gazebos, decks, patios, fences, and more. 

Unity

Carry similar plants, colors, textures and themes throughout your garden. Unify separate spaces through repetition. Mass plant instead of trying one of everything. this will make your garden flow from one space to the next. 

Organizing Your Seed Plantings

Many gardeners start seeds to early, causing problems in growth and development of a plant that would otherwise be healthy and beautiful! Growing indoors is fun and easy, once you know how to properly provide and care for your plants. Here is some great information on when to start seeds indoors for optimum growth and performance.
Sort your Seed Packets
Start by separating all your packets of seed into two piles: those that will be "direct-sown" (planted right in the garden) and those that will be started indoors. The outdoors pile will include most vegetables, such as peas, beans, corn, radishes, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, melons, cucumbers, and squash. Put a rubber band around whatever seeds you'll be planting outdoors and set them aside.
Most annual flowers will also go into the direct-sow pile: zinnias, asters, nasturtiums, sunflowers, bachelor's buttons, and calendula. If your growing season is very short or your garden conditions are especially difficult, you may decide to put some of these annual flowers into your "sow indoors" pile. Most perennial flowers will need to be started indoors.
Now spread out your "sow indoors" pile and start reading the back of the seed packets.  Sort your packets into piles according to these directions, making separate piles for 5, 7, 9 weeks, and so on. Some packets, especially those for perennials, may only tell you how long it takes the seeds to germinate. If that's all you have to go on, take that figure (which is usually a range) and add 6 weeks. Then put the packet into the appropriate pile.
If there's no information on the seed packet, you can pretty safely just start all your seeds about 6 weeks before you'll plant them outdoors. Make note of which plants are too big or too small at planting time, and then you can make adjustments next year based on your notes.
Creating the Calendar
To calculate your planting dates, you need to count back from the last frost date in one-week increments. Some gardeners base their calendar on Saturdays, because that is the day most gardeners have time to plant. Ask a local gardener or call your local extension service if you don't know the last frost date for your area.  Simply write the week number (8,4, 6 or whatever) on each seed packet and use a rubber band to keep each pile together. When the planting week arrives, you just grab the right packet and start planting.
Making Adjustments
Now that you have a great schedule, here are a couple reasons you may want to make some adjustments:
Start earlier: Seeds take longer to germinate and plants grow more slowly when air and soil temperatures are cool (below 70 degrees F). If you plan to start your seeds in a cool basement or cool bedroom, you may want to shift your whole schedule a week or two earlier.
You can see on my schedule that I start some greens and broccoli at the end of February. That's because these seedlings get planted outside about a month before the last frost date. If you have a cold frame or greenhouse, or if you use row covers or water-filled teepees, you can plant tender seedlings several weeks before the last frost date. Just count back from that expected planting date to get the right date to sow your seeds.
Start later: If you grow your seedlings in a greenhouse or a very warm room, you should cut a week or more out of your schedule. Heat promotes rapid growth, and you could find yourself with giant plants that are ready for the garden before warm weather arrives.

Pruning Hanging Baskets

Gorgeous hanging baskets bring color and life up off the ground and right into view! Use these pruning techniques to keep your baskets blooming like mad until fall rolls around and kills everything.
“Self-cleaning” plants do better with a little attention, though they will stay neat longer than their messier cousins. Snip spent petunia blossoms by cutting off the fine green flower stem back to the branch. Don't just pull the blown blossoms because that makes the plant think it should set seed.
Encourage branching in all types of hanging basket plants by snipping three stems in half every week. It's an easy rule to remember: three stems in half every seven days. Snip!
Snip unruly branches to keep the overall look neat. Cut them off about four inches from the soil line and they'll come back with more manners.
Did you know you can bring hanging baskets inside when fall arrives? Choose the strongest ones to overwinter. Shear them back severely—the longest branches should be just a few inches below the bottom of the pot. They'll need to rest in their new window homes for several weeks. Fertilize every month throughout the winter and come February you may see a few blossoms coming out.
Geraniums in hanging baskets need their flowers deadheaded when all the buds underneath are fully opened. Snip the whole flower stem off back to the branch.
Prune ivy geraniums in hanging baskets to give them a rounder shape. This will often encourage more blooming as well as looking very nice.
Begonias and impatiens in hanging baskets also like to be pruned. Follow the three/seven rule, and deadhead spent flower stems as well.
For nasturtiums and other vining plants, cut yellow leaves near the soil line at the same time you're pruning.
Fuchsia is an extremely low-maintenance hanging basket plant. Look them over for weak stems and spent flowers about once a week.
Filler plants like verbena and lobelia should get a gentle shake to deadhead. When they're starting to get tired toward the hot days of summer, shear off about 1/3 of these plants and they'll come back nicely in a couple of weeks.
Here's an interesting bonus tip that makes great sense: When it's time to fertilize hanging baskets, water first with plain water and allow the basket to drain thoroughly for an hour. Follow this with a thorough drink of fertilizer mixed according to the package directions. This two step process keeps soluble salts to a minimum and helps avoid fertilizer burn.

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Beier's Guide to Onions

Before planting, divide the sets into two sizes.  Use the largest sets for green table onions and the smaller sets for dry cooking onions.

SOIL TYPE

Make sure the pH is about 6.5 to 8.5 and that the soil is well drained, firm and not freshly manured. 

PLANTING THE ONIONS

In early to mid May, you can start to plant your onion bulbs.  To ensure you have straight rows you can pull a string across the gardening bed, and push the bulbs into the earth just along the string.  Make sure you watch the freshly planted onions because birds like to peck them out of the soil.  For that case keep a few extra bulbs and plant those when you notice that some bulbs have gone missing.  If you find that the birds are too large a problem to fix with a few bulbs, it will be helpful to protect the onions with a bird netting.  If you find that first pushes up the onion bulbs, push them back down to help them grow better.  The frost will not harm the onion since it likes cool moist temperatures.  Make sure you water the bulbs right after planting.

GREEN TABLE ONIONS

Choose the larger sets, the size of a nickel or larger, and plant in a row, with the roots down, ½ inch apart and 2 to 3 inches deep. Deep planting produces more white edible stems.  In just 4 to 5 weeks the onions can be harvested.  Continue to plant sets weekly for a continuous supply throughout the summer.

DRY COOKING ONIONS

Choose the smallest sets, the size of a nickel and smaller. Plant in a row, with the roots down 2 to 3 inches apart, and only deep enough to cover the top of the sets with dirt. Keep the rows of sets about 12 inches apart. When bulbs are ripe, the tops begin to yellow and fall over. When all the tops are dead, pull up plants and spread them in the sun for 3 to 4 days. Store in mesh bags. 

DURING THE GROWING SEASON

Periodically hoe the ground around the onions shallowly and make sure the plants are kept free from weeds to give them as many nutrients as possible.  Fertilize the plants every month with a general fertilizer to give the onion enough nutrients.  At this point the bird netting can usually be removed since the green stalks will not be that attractive to the birds anymore.

HARVEST AND STORAGE

In late August and early September it will be time to start harvesting the onions.  FI you want smaller onions, you can harvest them earlier.  When the bulb is ready for harvest the leaves will bend over, but usually you can just pull up the onions you deed for table use, or you can harvest all the onions at the same time.  For the largest onion it might help if you lift them up with a fork.  If you want to enjoy the onions in the winter months, you should spread the onions on sheets of newspaper in a dry, warm place for about 2 to 4 weeks.  This place should be sunny, but don’t let the onions get rained on or have dew falling on them.  This will make the sure the onions are dry and will not rot when you store them in the winter.  Once the onions are dry you can store them like store bought onions in net bags, or in slatted trays, or you can tie the dried stems to string and you can hang them in a cool dry place.  This method of storing will let you eat onions will into the spring.

A FROST AFTER PLANTING WILL NOT HARM THE SETS!

ONIONS ARE HEAVY FEEDERS, FERTILIZE WELL AND

A CONSTANT SUPPY OF WATER IS ESSENTIAL.

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